The Men’s T-Shirt Fabric & GSM Guide: What Makes a Tee Premium, Comfy, and Long-Lasting?

You know when a tee looks fire on the product page, but in real life, it turns out thin, clingy, or starts sagging after a few washes?

That gap between expectation and reality usually comes down to two things:

• The fabric

• The GSM

Once you understand those, you stop guessing and start buying tees that actually feel worth the money.

This guide breaks down what GSM really means, how 160 / 180 / 220 / 240 GSM behave on your body, what works for oversized vs relaxed fits, and how to choose the right fabric for Indian weather. Along the way, we’ll plug in some pieces from The Litt so you can see how it all comes together in real products, not just theory.

What Is GSM And Why Should You Care?

GSM stands for grams per square metre. It is a way of measuring how heavy a fabric is per square metre of material. Higher GSM generally means the fabric is thicker and denser. Lower GSM means lighter and airier. 

Essentially, GSM tells you about weight and thickness, not the whole story about quality. A badly made 240 GSM tee can still feel rough and stiff. A well-made 190 GSM tee in organic cotton can feel incredibly soft and premium.

The Litt leans heavily on this balance:

• Oversized tees like the Oversized Black T-Shirt – Bold realms and Oversized White T-Shirt – Born to Discover use 240 GSM premium organic cotton French terry for a structured, heavyweight feel.
  
  

• Relaxed fits like the Relaxed fit Black t-shirt – Youth rebellion sit at 190 GSM, with 100% organic cotton and a single jersey weave for lighter, everyday comfort.

Think of GSM as the starting point when you shop: it tells you how thick and substantial the tee will feel before you even touch it.

Simple GSM feel chart

Here’s a quick visual snapshot:

Based on industry guides, 180 GSM and 220–240 GSM are some of the most common “sweet spots” for t-shirts, depending on whether you want lightweight or more premium structure. 

160 GSM vs 180 GSM vs 220 GSM vs 240 GSM

You see these numbers in product descriptions all the time. Here’s what they actually translate to when you wear the tee.

Visual comparison chart

160 GSM

• Very breathable and light

• Great for extreme heat, but it can feel a little flimsy if the cotton quality or knitting is not good

• Better suited for basics and inner layers than for statement oversized fits

180 GSM

• Common “everyday” t-shirt weight

• Good for casual wear in Indian summers if the cotton is soft and the weave is done well

• Still on the lighter side if you want that premium, weighty streetwear vibe

220 GSM

• Where things start to feel more “serious”

• Extra structure, slightly thicker hand-feel, but still manageable in Indian weather if the fabric breathes well

• Very nice for relaxed fits, slightly boxy silhouettes, and tees you want to keep for years

240 GSM

• Classic heavyweight territory for tees

• Feels solid when you hold it, sits away from the body, and drapes in a more controlled way

• Industry guides often call 240 GSM a perfect weight for oversized streetwear because it keeps the silhouette intentional rather than limp

This is exactly why The Litt’s Men’s Oversized T-Shirts sit at 240 GSM. Pieces like:

• Oversized Black T-Shirt – Escape The Litt 

• Oversized Black T-Shirt – Born to Discover The Litt 

• Oversized White T-Shirt – 81 The Litt

are designed to feel “premium heavy” without becoming suffocating.

What GSM Means For Oversized vs Relaxed Fits

GSM and fit are best friends. The same GSM behaves differently on a slim tee vs an oversized tee.

Oversized fits

Oversized tees have extra volume in the body and sleeves. If the fabric is too light, that volume just collapses, clings, or flaps awkwardly.

That is why The Litt’s Men’s Oversized T-Shirt category leans into heavier GSM fabrics that: 

• Hold structure and shape

• Maintain the original oversized silhouette after many washes

• Make prints look sharper instead of sagging or twisting

Tees like:

• Oversized Baggy Black T-Shirt – Explore The Litt

• Oversized White T-Shirt – Beyond The Litt

use 240 GSM organic cotton to give you that “intentional streetwear” feel, not a random, baggy gym tee.

Relaxed fits

Relaxed fits sit between regular and oversized. They don’t need the same level of weight to hold shape because the volume isn’t as extreme.

The Litt’s Relaxed Fit Men’s T-Shirts use 190 GSM organic cotton in a single jersey weave.

That gives you:

• Enough thickness to feel substantial

• Enough lightness to stay breathable for daily wear in Indian weather

• A softer drape that still looks neat under overshirts, denim, or jackets

Examples:

• Relaxed fit Green t-shirt – 0

• Relaxed fit Black t-shirt – Youth rebellion The Litt+1

So in simple terms:

• Oversized + 240 GSM = bold, structured, streetwear heavy hitter

• Relaxed + 190 GSM = everyday comfort, easy drape, still feels premium

How Fabric Impacts Drape, Comfort And Durability

GSM sets the weight class. Fabric type and construction decide how that weight behaves.

Drape

• The 240 GSM French terry organic cotton in tees like Oversized Fit Bold Realms and Oversized Black T-Shirt – Tokyo spring gives a clean, structured drape. The tee falls straight, doesn’t cling to your stomach or back, and the sleeves keep a nice shape around your arms.
  
  

• The 190 GSM single jersey organic cotton in relaxed pieces like Relaxed fit White t-shirt – Youth rebellion creates a softer, more fluid drape. It follows your body a bit more while still giving you room to move.

Comfort

Comfort is a mix of:

• Fibre type (natural cotton vs synthetic)

• GSM

• Weave

• Finishing

The Litt uses:

• 100% organic cotton in both relaxed fits and many oversized styles
  
  

• Super combed, pre-shrunk and bio-washed finishes for smoother hand-feel and reduced shrinkage
  
  

• OEKO-TEX® certification on styles like the Relaxed Youth rebellion tees and Oversized Escape, to keep the fabric free from harmful substances and skin-safe

So even when you are wearing 240 GSM, it doesn’t feel suffocating in the way a cheap, synthetic-heavy “heavy” tee can.

Durability

Heavier GSM naturally helps with:

• Better resistance to wear and tear

• Less transparency

• More consistent shape over time

But durability also comes from:

• Quality stitching on neck, shoulders and hem

• Pre-shrunk fabric that doesn’t warp after washing

• Good printing techniques that don’t crack or peel

That is why the Men’s Oversized T-Shirt collection highlights: heavier GSM, pre-shrunk cotton, and high-quality printing that resists fading and cracking. 

Cotton vs Cotton-Blend vs Heavyweight Cotton

Let’s decode the fabric types you’ll usually bump into.

1. Cotton

• Breathable, soft, skin-friendly

• Works better than synthetics in Indian humidity

• Ages nicely if the GSM and yarn quality are good

The Litt’s relaxed styles like Relaxed fit White t-shirt – Youth rebellion are 100% organic cotton, 190 GSM, single jersey, which gives you that comfortable everyday tee you can wear for hours. 

2. Cotton blends

On the oversized category page, The Litt talks about soft, breathable cotton blends that work in Indian heat, especially paired with heavier GSM for structure. 

Blends can:

• Improve durability and reduce shrinkage

• Add stretch or specific performance traits

• Dry a little faster than pure cotton

What matters is that the blend still feels soft against the skin and doesn’t trap heat. If the brand is clear about breathability and finishing, you are good.

3. Heavyweight cotton (like 240 GSM French terry)

This is what gives tees like:

• Oversized Black T-Shirt – Escape

• Oversized White T-Shirt – 81 The Litt+1

that solid, premium feel.

Benefits:

• Better structure and fall on oversized silhouettes

• Less see-through, even in lighter colours

• Feels more “built” and long-lasting

The trade-off is just weight, which you manage by picking when and where you wear it.

How To Pick Fabric Based On Indian Weather

Now let’s make this practical. You are in India. It is hot, humid, and then suddenly aggressive AC.

Peak summer (dry or humid)

You want:

• GSM in the 160–190 range

• Fabrics that are 100% cotton or cotton-rich blends

• Slightly relaxed or relaxed fits for airflow

The Litt’s Relaxed Fit Men’s T-Shirts at 190 GSM organic cotton are built for exactly this. Styles like Relaxed fit Green t-shirt – 0 and Relaxed fit Brown t-shirt – Pie give you breathable comfort without feeling flimsy.

Daily city wear and evenings

Here you can push into 190–220 GSM easily:

• Relaxed fits in 190 GSM for daytime

• Oversized 240 GSM for evenings, café runs, concerts, or indoor spaces

Oversized tees like Oversized Black T-Shirt – Born to Discover or Oversized Baggy Black T-Shirt – Explore give you that extra visual punch without overheating indoors. 

Cooler months and heavy AC

When it gets mildly cool or when the office decides to turn the AC to “Shimla”:

• 240 GSM oversized tees are perfect.

• You can layer them over a thinner base tee or under a light jacket.

Pieces like Oversized White T-Shirt – Beyond or Oversized Black T-Shirt – Tokyo spring hold their structure under outer layers and still feel comfortable.

Fabric Care Tips To Keep Your Tee Premium For Longer

Good GSM and fabric can still be ruined by bad washing habits. Luckily, The Litt basically hands you the care playbook in their product pages, and it is straightforward.

Here is a consolidated, practical list:

• Wash cold, inside-out

• Machine wash on a gentle cycle

• Cold water helps prevent shrinkage and colour fading
  
  

• Use mild detergent

• Skip harsh chemicals and bleach

• Keeps the fabric surface smooth and the print intact
  
  

• Wash with similar colours

• Especially for blacks, strong prints and dark shades
  
  

• Dry smart

• Tumble dry low or, better, hang dry in shade

• High heat is the fastest way to kill cotton and shrink necklines
  
  

• Iron with care

• Iron inside-out on low heat

• Avoid ironing directly over prints or graphics
  
  

• Store properly

• Fold rather than hang heavy 240 GSM oversized tees if your hangers stretch the shoulders

• Keep them away from direct sunlight to prevent colour dulling

Follow this, and your 240 GSM oversized favourites and 190 GSM relaxed staples will hold their fit, colour and feel much longer.

Conclusion

If you strip away all the hype, a “premium” tee is basically:

• The right GSM for the fit and climate

• The right fabric construction for drape and comfort

• The right care so it keeps that feel over time

For quick decisions:

• Want everyday, all-season comfort in India?
  Go for 190 GSM organic cotton relaxed fits like the Relaxed fit Youth rebellion range from the Relaxed Fit Men’s T-Shirts collection.
  
  

• Want that intentional, heavyweight, streetwear silhouette?
  Pick 240 GSM oversized tees from Men’s Oversized T-Shirt, such as Oversized Black T-Shirt – Escape, Oversized Baggy White T-Shirt – 81, or Oversized White T-Shirt – Born to Discover.

Once you start reading GSM and fabric details the way you check specs on a phone, you stop wasting money on tees that stretch out or fade quickly. And you build a rotation where every piece feels good, survives real life, and actually earns its spot in your wardrobe.

You may even like to read: How to Style Oversized T Shirts